Restaurant ESqUISSE | レストラン エスキス

Behind the Dishes

2019.03.26
Pigeon – roast banana & clove – Marsala wine & hay

Pigeon – roast banana & clove – Marsala wine & hay

Pigeon poached in is wings bones, burned hay & Marsala wine stock roasted, parsnips purée, stewed petit vert, lotus barigoule, ryokuto seed flavored of goat cheese, salmi sauce, roast banana flavored of cloves, fermented mushrooms powder.

This dish is build with different “circle” which are connected each other, biologically, geographically, & historically. But what linked them all together is the Marsala wine, by its component and his smoked umami taste, it create a deep harmony, pinpoint all the flavors.
I believe we shouldn’t use “raw”wine in a dish that contain a roasted meat, there is a gap of taste between them almost impossible to fill, while “cooked wine”, by the panel of notes it offers multiplying and refining all flavors,
The Marsala wine is only created in Sicilia, it is quite lately harvested at full maturity, then exposed under sun rays for 48 h, at the time à natural fermentation and Maillard reaction is processing, in the same time the ultraviolet radiation is killing the bad bacteria which makes the wine age beautifully.The main cépage is the Grillo, it can handle a very high temperature without producing to much sugar that makes the wine very moderately sweet, which is highly important when you use in the kitchen.

Lionel Beccat