Restaurant ESqUISSE | レストラン エスキス

Behind the Dishes

2021.03.10
Nudity | white asparagus, soy, kinome

I imagined this plate as a “pause” in the menu, a moment of emptiness, a hushed silence.

The “good” taste, is not always the strong taste, concentrated or multiplied, it is also the natural and essential taste of things, without “forcing” the product to be what it is not.

The white asparagus is a simple plant, it expresses its nature in a veiled way, with a discreet length, almost calm, relaxing.

It diffuses through its moisture, scents of earth, closed buds, seeds in bloom, white flower, even its bitterness has the elegance of discretion.

I wanted to respect that.

Soy milk and kinome have exactly the same impulses, speak the same language.

The botarga and vinegar bring a touch of disorder, to emphasize this harmony.

 

—-

  • White asparagus

Precooked in a toridashi at 63°C

Then rolled gently in butter, scented with a few kinome leaves

 

  • Unctuous sauce

Tofu, tonyu, shiro Shoyu, a hint of sake, horseradish, egg yolk

 

  • The botarga : Macerated for a week with kasu sake and Mirin kasu, shoyu, sugar

 

  • And .. A Dash of Barolo Vinegar

And the beurre noisette flavored of kinome