Restaurant ESqUISSE | レストラン エスキス

Behind the Dishes


INTUITION Kombu, conte, truffe


It’s been 8 long years since this strange little thing, made of Konbu, mascarpone, Comté, truffle and sake was born. I can’t let it go, because people love it.

I’ve often wondered what makes a dish special or timeless, and I’ve never been able to answer that question.

The only thing I know for sure is that we shouldn’t try to impress, to look for some kind of surprise effect, or build a dish through some kind of crescendo, like a firework display, which would certainly have a strong and immediate impact, but I feel that this is not the role of the cuisine.

I’ve noticed that we don’t really listen to someone who speaks loudly, we even naturally back off a bit and close our guard, guided by our primal instinct.

Emitting is not a question of volume, but of tone, softness and variation, we will give our full attention to a voice that speaks in this way.

And above all to a voice that does not demand to be listened to, a voice that thinks that the words must be said even if they are lost in the wind, there will surely be someone far away who will receive them.

Maybe it’s the same with cooking…

It must be offered as one gives to read, calmly, because cuisine is first made of silences, tastes can be “read like words” so they give life to forms, colors, sensations, feelings, and all these “words” answer to our personal novel.

Cuisine is made to repair the tragic.

As Ryoko wrote: “From a meal , we don’t come out stronger, but during the time of it, a form of salvation is possible, knowing that we will be exactly the same when we leave…or maybe not exactly the same, because for a brief moment, cuisine teaches us that dreams have a place in this world”.